MANTA, ECUADOR – PACOCHE LODGE & RESERVE (5 OF 6)

Within just a few minutes of leaving Playa San Lorenzo, we were in a different world! Everything we’d seen in Ecuador so far had been dry and brown, generally a desolate landscape. Driving into higher elevations we entered a misty, lush and green environment just 16 miles from the Manta harbor. Our bus pulled off into a wide area on the side of the road (to call it a parking lot would be an exaggeration). As we left the bus, we could see David motioning us on to a break in the dense foliage. Pacoche Lodge & Reserve is in one of the last remaining semi-dry tropical forests – think paths in Disneyworld’s Animal Kingdom, but for real. The Lodge is a combination Restaurant, 3-star Resort, Hostel and Refuge. If we had time to walk the trails, we might have seen Howling and Cappuccino monkeys in the trees. David said the howling monkeys are quite friendly and curious; they will follow you along the path as you walk. The Cappuccino monkeys are not so much. They are much less sociable and are rarely seen.

What a shock upon entering the building – a beautiful, circular glass-walled room with the forest all around. As it turns out, even the bathrooms were spotless and beautiful! They were ready for us – serving a choice of chilled water, Coke, Fanta Orange and a banana flavored soda as we entered. I was sorry I didn’t try the banana, but John brought me the Orange since he knew I liked it.

The tables for four in the dining room were all set for our “mystery” activity – making Bolon de Verde (Green Plantain Dumplings). Each table was set up with ingredients and equipment. We designated our table’s “chef”. Our partners were a very nice couple from Canada. She said she had stopped cooking at home but was willing to take on the task for our table. She might have been sorry she volunteered! I’ve never had any experience with plantains, and a green plantain is very hard and difficult to peel. Even with a “leader” at the front showing us how it wasn’t easy. In fact, they gave us a second plantain because our first one didn’t come out very well!

The next step is boiling the plantains, so they took away our mangled, semi-successfully peeled plantain and gave us a bowl of boiled plantain pieces. The plantains were smashed with a wooden mortar and seasoned with the spices they provide – Coriander, minced leeks, butter and salt. Our designated table chef formed the mixed ingredients into a ball a little smaller than a tennis ball. She made an impression into the center of the ball with her thumb and stuffed in grated cheese. She then closed the ball. They had provided plastic gloves so the whole operation was sanitary if not efficient. After we admired the handiwork, they took away our efforts and served us the finished product completed by the professionals! Delicious Green Plantain Dumplings fried to perfection and oozing melted cheese when broken open. Later, on the bus, David said he makes them at home for breakfast but not in ball shape, more pancake shape and topped with a fried egg. He boils the plantains the night before, then the next morning, combines the smashed the bananas with other ingredients (including bacon like chucks of cooked pork meat) before frying the mixture in his Air-Fryer – tradition meets modern technology.

I later read that Bolon de Verde is considered the national dish of Ecuador. It probably has African roots, brought to Ecuador, possibly via Cuba, through the slave trade. It’s very similar to a traditional Cuba dish “futi de platano”. Although usually a breakfast or brunch item, a smaller sized dumpling would be a great appetizer with a dipping sauce.

Like all our stops, this one was created for the tourist trade but was well done and very enjoyable. When we returned to our bus, we were greeted by three Ecuadorian policemen who saw our bus during their routine patrol and had stopped to be sure there was no problem. They gave us a police escort part of the way back to Manta.

As we boarded our bus to head back to the Zuiderdam, we had no idea the greatest adventure of the day lay ahead!